Makeup Tips for Women Over 40 Preparing for a Legacy Photoshoot

Makeup Looks that Enhance (Not Hide) Your Natural Beauty at 40+

(Q&A with Adrienne, Lead Makeup Artist & Owner of After Death Artistry)

Hey friends! This month I sat down with pro makeup artist Adrienne Duterte to get the scoop on some of the best makeup tips for women over 40. Adrienne and I have collaborated on Pink Owl photoshoots for years and she’s truly a whiz when it comes to makeup application for mature skin. So go grab a cup of coffee or a glass of wine and sit down with us as Adrienne spills all of her industry secrets!

Adrienne, tell us a little about yourself and how After Death Artistry came to be. What’s your philosophy when it comes to beauty, especially for women over 40?

I’ve been a working hair and makeup artist for the last 12 years, and I’ve worked at various spas/salons and with bridal companies. After Death Artistry came to be after I learned what I did and didn’t enjoy in those various workplaces, and I wanted to create something authentic to me and the work I most enjoyed doing.

Adrienne Duterte photographed by Three Region NC (Jessica).

I love having variety in my work, from editorial to weddings, and having diversity in the clients I work with, from different skin tones to various ages. I’m a big believer in the philosophy of less is more. Don’t get me wrong, I love a smoky eye or bold lip, but a glowing, and most importantly, skin-like base is a non-negotiable for me. People get in trouble when they use more makeup to try and hide/conceal, when they can get a better and more flattering result with the right tools, products, and techniques.

You work with a wide range of clients, but I know you have a special touch when it comes to mature skin. What do you love most about working with women in their 40s, 50s, and beyond?

I think what I love most about working with clients with mature skin is definitely seeing them light up after seeing the finished product. Makeup is such a different and more complicated world than it used to be, and it’s hard to get out of a routine of using the same products you always have. It’s incredibly rewarding to see the renewed excitement they have in themselves.

In your own words, what does “enhancing natural beauty” mean, especially for women who’ve seen their skin, features, and confidence evolve with time?

Enhancing natural beauty to me means not completely changing how a person looks and, shockingly, not hiding every “imperfection.” I seek to highlight the features a client wants to focus on and subtly reduce any that they don’t. I also believe that skin is skin, and nobody’s is perfect. Trying to erase every spot is what makes people look like they’re wearing a mask rather than creating a more enhanced version of themselves.

Makeup for Mature Skin

What are the top 3 things women over 40 should look for in makeup products that support mature skin?

The top three key words/phrases I would recommend looking for are radiant finish, buildable, and brightening.

Is there a common mistake you see women over 40 making with their makeup routine—and what should they do instead?

I think one of the biggest mistakes I see is using too much or black eyeliner. Using a brown to dark brown eyeliner is more flattering and keeps the eyes from looking too closed in. Using an eyeshadow rather than an eyeliner can also help create a softer and more youthful look.

Let’s talk foundation. Many women struggle with finding one that doesn’t settle into fine lines. What do you recommend for achieving a flawless yet natural finish on camera?

I think 99% of women struggle with makeup settling in their fine lines. The best approach to avoid this is the philosophy I mentioned earlier—less is more. 9 times out of 10, the areas where women have fine lines aren’t areas that need much coverage. It’s best to use a minimal product in those areas, since less product means the product can’t settle in those areas. Also, using a lighter dusting of powder to set rather than packing it on can help.

Are there any viral makeup trends women with mature skin should avoid?

To be honest, I don’t think there are many viral makeup trends I would recommend anyone to follow, haha! They can be very misleading, as lighting and editing can really change how the finished product actually looks, and the camera softens things that wouldn’t look very flattering at all in person. The only one I can think of that I am a fan of is blush placement. You don’t need a lot (if you don’t want it), and a softer hand I think is more complimentary with this look, but placing the blush higher on the cheek and softly (once there’s not much product left on the brush or using a sheerer blush) into the undereye area creates a very youthful and glowing finish rather than leaving this harsh skintone strip of skin between the eye and where the blush starts.

Prepping for a Legacy Session

When someone is coming in for a Legacy Session—especially a mother-daughter shoot—how do you approach makeup differently than you would for, say, a prom or editorial look?

With Legacy Sessions, as counterintuitive as it sounds, I go for the most flattering over the longevity of the makeup. Since it’s for a photoshoot and not an event that needs to last for multiple hours, I’d rather create a look that focuses on glowing skin (but obviously not so glowy that it looks oily). This means minimal to no powder products and mainly liquids and creams.

What skincare prep do you recommend in the days leading up to an in-studio portrait session for women over 40?

Hydrating and exfoliating are your best friends leading up to a special event or photos. Don’t overdo it with exfoliating, though, as it can have the opposite of the desired effect. Depending on the strength, 2-3 times a week is ideal. You can’t really over-hydrate and moisturize your skin, and using more emollient products at night while your skin renews does wonders.

For women who aren’t used to wearing a lot of makeup, how do you help them feel comfortable and still picture-ready?

I try to ask a lot of questions before starting the makeup and while applying it to make sure we’re on the same page with their comfort level and desired look. I also always err on the side of “caution” and always go just a bit softer because you can always add onto a look, but it’s much harder to soften it once it’s too dark or bold.

What are a few go-to makeup looks that photograph beautifully for mature skin, especially in the lighting and style of our photo shoot studio?

Soft glam is always my go-to for a natural but enhancing look. It’s more than just no-makeup makeup, but still doesn’t scream I have makeup on. I try to avoid too glittery or sparkly shimmers and opt for something that has a nice sheen since it won’t emphasize texture as much.

Expert Pro Makeup Artist Tips

Any favorite products you always keep in your kit when working with mature skin?

The Vieve Skin Nova Complexion Balm is my new favorite moisturizer and primer base in one. It’s hydrating without being too emollient that it disrupts the makeup that goes on top of it, and gives the skin a beautiful glow and warmth. My go-to foundation currently is the NARS Light Reflecting Foundation. It has the most gorgeous, radiant finish without being too dewy and is very buildable.

What’s your secret for making eyes look bright and lifted, especially if someone is concerned about hooded or tired-looking eyes?

Using an undereye concealer with a slightly peach undertone that is only 1-2 shades lighter than their foundation helps to really brighten under the eye without looking unnatural. I also like to add a little to the outer corners under the eye at an upward angle to give a nice lift.

Let’s talk lips—how do you choose shades that feel modern, flattering, and elegant for more mature clients?

I consider the client’s skin tone and the natural tone of their lip to discern what will be the most flattering color that won’t look too garish or wash them out. I also believe if someone is used to wearing a certain shade, it’s best to work with that and slightly tweak to a more complementary tone if needed. Lip color is definitely one of those things that can make someone feel wildly uncomfortable if it’s not a color they’re used to seeing on themselves. Even if other people tell them they look great in it.

For women who wear glasses, how can makeup still make their features pop on camera?

The great thing about glasses actually is that you can do more with the eyes without it looking too dark or bold because the glasses almost act as a filter and soften the makeup. With that being said, I typically go a bit darker than what the client may initially envision and define the eye, at least on the top lid, with a black, brown, or slightly buffed black liner.

Beauty, Legacy & Confidence

You’ve helped so many women see themselves in a new light through makeup. Can you share a favorite moment or transformation that really moved you?

I think one of my favorite moments was working with a client who had recently gone through a lot of health issues and wasn’t feeling that she looked her best. Seeing her light up and her confidence skyrocket after finishing her hair and makeup was such a reminder of why I even started doing this. She was such a colorful and inspiring person, so seeing her come alive during her session made it so memorable.

How has your view of beauty evolved as you've worked with women of different ages and stages in life?

I think true beauty does come with age because it comes from experiencing life that someone can exude beauty in something beyond just being skin deep. You always hear people are attracted to confidence, and I think the confidence and sureness in oneself, having lived a full life, truly shows in someone’s energy through a photo.

What’s your message to women who may be hesitant to step in front of the camera because they don’t “look like they used to”?

I know it can be scary at first, but with the right photographer, it’s such an empowering experience being photographed. You’re able to see such a strong side of yourself that you don’t typically see on the day-to-day when you see those photos, and that confidence stays with you going forward. Life is about memories and growing and changing, and it’s worth it to document every stage of that.

Want to connect with Adrienne and follow her work?

TikTok: @afterdeathartistry

IG: @afterdeathartistry

Website: www.afterdeathartistry.com